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Planting Calendar By Zone
| Crop | Start indoors | Sow / transplant | Expected harvest |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes | Feb 25 | Transplant Apr 29 | Jul 13 |
| Peppers | Feb 11 | Transplant May 6 | Jul 25 |
| Bush beans | — | Direct sow Apr 22 | Jun 16 |
| Pole beans | — | Direct sow Apr 29 | Jul 3 |
| Carrots | — | Direct sow Mar 25 | Jun 3 |
| Lettuce Cool-season | — | Direct sow Mar 11 | Apr 25 |
| Kale Cool-season; also fall | — | Direct sow Mar 11 | May 5 |
| Zucchini / squash | — | Direct sow Apr 29 | Jun 18 |
| Corn | — | Direct sow Apr 29 | Jul 18 |
| Peas | — | Direct sow Mar 11 | May 15 |
| Radishes | — | Direct sow Mar 18 | Apr 15 |
| Broccoli | Feb 18 | Transplant Mar 18 | May 27 |
| Cucumbers | — | Direct sow Apr 29 | Jun 23 |
| Onions | Jan 28 | Transplant Mar 18 | Jul 6 |
| Garlic Plant 6 wks before first fall frost | — | Fall plant Sep 3 | May 1 |
| Spinach | — | Direct sow Mar 11 | Apr 20 |
| Cabbage | Feb 18 | Transplant Mar 25 | Jun 18 |
| Eggplant | Feb 18 | Transplant May 6 | Jul 25 |
| Beets | — | Direct sow Mar 25 | May 19 |
| Swiss chard | — | Direct sow Mar 25 | May 19 |
Dates use typical frost averages for the zone — adjust 1–2 weeks based on your specific microclimate and current weather forecast.
A planting calendar tells you WHEN to start seeds indoors, when to direct-sow outside, when to transplant seedlings, and when to expect harvest — all calibrated to your USDA Hardiness Zone (or equivalent climate zone). The math works backward from your last spring frost date and forward from first fall frost date, since these define your growing season. Cool-season crops (lettuce, spinach, peas, kale, broccoli, cabbage) tolerate light frost and can be planted 4-6 weeks BEFORE your last spring frost. Warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, beans, cucumbers) cannot tolerate any frost — direct-sow or transplant 1-2 weeks AFTER your last frost date when soil temps reach 60°F+ for most crops, 70°F+ for melons and peppers.
The calendar covers 20 common backyard-garden crops with three planting modes: start indoors (cold-season crops 8-12 weeks before last frost; warm-season crops 6-8 weeks before), direct-sow (cool-season 4-6 weeks before last frost; warm-season 1-2 weeks after), and transplant (move seedlings out when conditions allow). Output: zone- specific date ranges for each crop and each planting mode, plus expected days to harvest. Zone 7 (mid-Atlantic, parts of California) gets the most flexibility — long growing season, mild winters, can do fall plantings of cool-season crops. Zone 5 (much of Northeast, Midwest) has tighter windows — last frost mid-May, first frost early October, ~140 frost-free days to work with. Zone 9 (FL, southern TX, AZ) flips the calendar — summer is too hot for many crops; fall and winter are prime growing.
What the calendar doesn't capture but you should: microclimate (south-facing gardens warm 1-2 weeks earlier than open ground; cold pockets in low spots stay frozen later), soil temperature (more important than calendar date for warm-season crops — wait for 60°F+ before direct- sowing tomatoes regardless of calendar), weather variability (an unusually warm spring lets you plant 1-2 weeks early; a cold snap forces 1-2 week delay), and succession planting (lettuce, spinach, radishes can be planted every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest, not just once at season start). Use the calendar as a framework; adjust based on what your weather and soil are actually doing.
Nasıl Kullanılır
- Pick your USDA Hardiness Zone (use the zone-lookup tool if you don't know).
- Browse the crop table for your zone — start-indoors / direct-sow / transplant date ranges.
- Plan backwards from each crop's last frost-relative date.
- Cross-reference with actual weather forecast — adjust 1-2 weeks based on soil-temp readings.
- For succession planting (lettuce, radishes, beans), plant every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest.
Ne Zaman Kullanılır
- Spring garden planning — laying out the planting schedule for the season.
- Beginner gardeners learning when each crop type goes in.
- Fall garden planning — many people forget you can plant cool-season crops in late summer.
- Succession planting calendars for crops that can be planted multiple times.
- Comparing your zone to a friend's in another region.
Ne Zaman Kullanılmaz
- Tropical / subtropical zones (Hawaii, parts of FL) — different growing patterns; wet/dry seasons matter more than frost dates.
- Greenhouse / indoor growing — environmental control overrides outdoor calendar.
- Hydroponic systems — frost-date calculus doesn't apply.
- Specialty crops (artichokes, asparagus, perennials) — those have specific multi-year establishment schedules beyond a basic calendar.
Yaygın Kullanım Senaryoları
- Verifying a number or output before passing it on
- Quick use during a typical workday
- Pre-decision sanity-check on inputs and outputs
- Educational use — demonstrating the underlying concept
Sık Sorulan Sorular
How accurate are the dates?
Within a 2-3 week window typical. The calendar uses average frost dates from NOAA climate normals; specific years can be 1-3 weeks earlier or later. Use the calendar as a planning framework, then adjust based on actual weather. Rule of thumb: don't direct-sow warm-season crops until soil temp at 4-inch depth is consistently 60°F+ regardless of calendar.
What's a starting indoors timeline?
8-12 weeks before last frost: onions from seed, leeks, celery, parsley. 6-8 weeks: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, kale. 4-6 weeks: cucumbers, melons, squash (these don't love transplanting; some prefer direct-sowing). 2-4 weeks: most herbs. Direct-sow only: peas, beans, corn, root vegetables (carrots, radishes, beets — root crops generally don't transplant well).
When can I move seedlings outside?
Cool-season crops (lettuce, spinach, peas, brassicas): 2-4 weeks before last frost. Warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash): 1-2 weeks AFTER last frost, when soil is 60°F+ and overnight lows stay above 45°F. Always “harden off” seedlings — gradually expose them to outdoor conditions over 7-14 days before permanent transplant. Skipping hardening kills seedlings via wind/sun shock.
What about fall planting?
Cool-season crops do double-duty: spring planting AND fall planting. Count BACKWARD from first fall frost: lettuce, spinach, kale 6-8 weeks before frost; broccoli, cabbage 10-12 weeks before; garlic, onions plant in fall to overwinter for early-summer harvest. Fall is often a better time to grow cool-season crops than spring because shortening days and cooling temps mimic ideal conditions.
What's succession planting?
Planting the same crop multiple times across the season for continuous harvest. Most useful for: lettuce / spinach / arugula (every 2-3 weeks all season — bolts in heat, but cool-loving), radishes (every 2 weeks — fast harvest cycle), bush beans (every 3 weeks — keeps fresh beans coming), cilantro (every 2-3 weeks — bolts fast in heat). NOT useful for: tomatoes, peppers, large root crops (one planting cycle per season).
How do I extend the season?
Three techniques: (1) Row covers / floating row covers (lightweight fabric over hoops) protect against light frost, extend season 2-4 weeks each end. (2) Cold frames (mini glass-topped boxes) extend much longer, 6-8 weeks each end. (3) Hoop houses / low tunnels (plastic over PVC arches) can extend 2-3 months. (4) Greenhouses give year-round growing in many climates. Even simple row covers can mean a 4-month vs 6-month growing season in colder zones.